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    A Crowded Refuge
    • Sep 4, 2019

    A Crowded Refuge

    The dolphins drew the sea people to Fanalei, an uninhabited strip of coral sand and squat mangrove trees perched in easy reach of South...
    Moving a Capital
    • Aug 29, 2019

    Moving a Capital

    The engine silenced, our small craft drifted toward the southern bank of the slender jungle river. Around us, dangling lofty arcs of...
    Forbidden Island, Divided by the Waves
    • Aug 18, 2019

    Forbidden Island, Divided by the Waves

    Wading through a warm shallow stretch of the South Pacific, soft coral sand underfoot, Chief Maso Sambolo pointed out submerged sections...
    After the Flood
    • Jul 28, 2019

    After the Flood

    After my visit to Tsho Rolpa, I didn’t have to travel far to find a community that had already been hit by an outburst flood from a...
    Notes from a Himalayan Hotspot
    • Jul 25, 2019

    Notes from a Himalayan Hotspot

    If you’ve never experienced altitude headaches, try imagining a crazed medieval executioner squeezing a cord around your skull, perhaps...
    The Tiger Widows of Gabura
    • Jul 5, 2019

    The Tiger Widows of Gabura

    The tiger widows broke out in peals of pitch-dark humour when I asked what future they saw for Gabura, their tiny island on the fringes...
    Lunch with a Prawn King
    • Jul 3, 2019

    Lunch with a Prawn King

    Two dozen giant tiger prawns writhed in furious astonishment, suspended in a finely woven net that lurched and bulged with their...
    Morjina and the Mayor of Mongla
    • Jun 28, 2019

    Morjina and the Mayor of Mongla

    With a small paper fan, Morjina stirred the treacly air inside the room that she shared with her husband and two small daughters. On the...
    • Jun 13, 2019

    Introduction

    What has created an unlikely nexus between Siberian mammoth tusk hunters and the gaudy casinos of Macau? What connects West African...

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